Today, we drove through some of the "Plus Beaux Villages de France" in the remote eastern Dordogne. Each is a lovely medieval town with a beautiful cathedral and stunning views of the countryside. Most cathedrals are Romanesque.I had thought I preferred Gothic architecture after seeing the Basilica in Cologne, Germany and Notre Dame in Paris. However, the clean elegant lines of these churches are more beautifully proportioned than anything I have seen. The absolute simplicity of design is breathtaking.
I was quite taken with the pigeonaires and bories (above) scattered about the countryside.
Rocamadour - situated at the top of a gorge, is the sight of perhaps the most important of some 200 Black Virgins in France. To recent pagan converts, black symbolized motherhood and fertility and was a familiar icon for worship. The city was a top pilgrimage sight - the body of Zacchaeus (taxcollector/follower of Jesus) was found there according to legend. As you can see from the picture, Rocamadour is built on three levels: the city at the bottom, the church in the middle-up a 223 step climb, and the chateau at the top.
Autoire - was my favorite. Saint Pierre is the quintessential Romanesque cathedral. Look at the way the rounded column wraps across the vaulted ceiling and down the opposite side. Everything about it is perfect. Each window forms a perfect arch. Everything is rounded, heavy, and connotes peace and strength everlasting. It is not fussy or frivolous.We had a fabulous lunch. I had trout, Janet had duck and John had roast kangaroo. All was served with garlic soup, grilled squash and fabulous potatoes sarladaise.
People watching was superb - I am quite certain I saw Julia Child II, complete with a walking stick and fingerless Nordic walking gloves.
The shop across the street featured a poster of 32 pigeonaires from the southwest of France. I took a picture. I was loaded with posters from the Mauritshuis at the Hague.
Carennac - features the 11th Century Saint-Pierre church with a stunning carved Romanesque tympanum over the west entrance. Christ and the four Apostles sit in Judgement at the end of time. The Romanesque arches inside are beautiful. The town was home to Fenelon, and also home to the charming pigeonaire at the top.
Vayrac - We stopped briefly at John's request to take pictures of the spectacular black cockerel at the top of the town's World War I memorial.
Collonges-la-Rouge - The buildings are entirely of red sandstone with slate roofs. The church, again named Saint-Pierre has a Moorish entry with a white 12th century tympanum representing the Ascension of Christ. This piece was hidden during the Wars of Religion and not replaced until 1923.
We returned to Sarlat in time to wander past the beautiful Medieval buildings with a new appreciation after all we had seen today.
Good night again.
Love from
Rozanne and Janet
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